Paris’ venerable Place Vendômehas long been home to some of the world’s most distinguished jewelers. Discreet entrances belie the staggering beauty and almost unfathomable luxury housed within these former Hôtels particuliers turned boutiques. Housed at N°18 is BOUTIQUE CHANEL JOAILLERIE, where tucked above the glittering showroom on the ground floor is the atelier that produces their spectacular High Jewelry pieces. Utilizing traditional methods combined with cutting edge technology, master artisans manipulate precious metals and set them with gems of the finest caliber resulting in pieces that are nothing short of fine art. CHANEL High Jewelry collections are always deeply rooted in the history of CHANEL and Mademoiselle Chanel herself. Frequently incorporating talismans and totems that were meaningful to her and have become symbols of the House, CHANEL High Jewelry collections are always incredibly special not just for the pieces that make up the collections but also for the inspiration behind them.
The latest High Jewelry collection presented under the direction of Patrice Leguéreau, director of the Fine Jewelry Creation Studio for CHANEL, is entitled LE PARIS RUSSE DE CHANEL. The 63 pieces that make up the collection act as a testament to the symbols, style, and artistic patrimony of country that, while never visited by Gabrielle Chanel, frequently fueled her imagination and creativity. Having been introduced to the motifs and style of the once staggeringly wealthy Russian court through her brief but intense affair with the Grand Duke Dmitri Pavlovich, cousin of the last Tsar, Mademoiselle Chanel began incorporating these elements into her designs and her personal world. It was also at this time that the former perfumer to the Tsar’s court, Ernest Beaux, would create the revolutionary N°5 fragrance for her.
In the 1920s, many of the White Russians who fled following the Bolshevik Revolution of 1917 and the ensuing Russian Civil War settled in France. These émigrés were not simply those in opposition to the new Russian regime, but also the former aristocracy of Tsarist Russia. Former Grand Dukes and Duchesses, Princesses and Princes, Officers of the Guard, and artists like Stravinsky flocked to Paris and lived in the orbit of Gabrielle Chanel. Coupled with her affair with the Grand Duke, Mademoiselle was introduced to and captivated by the former glittering gory of the Russian Empire.
LE PARIS RUSSE DE CHANEL draws direct inspiration from the many symbols and decorative arts styles that were, and still are, part of the Russian artistic and cultural ethos. The double-headed eagle, an imperial symbol that dates to the reign of Peter the Great, is intertwined with one of CHANEL’s most iconic symbols, the camellia. Further inspiration is drawn from the kokoshnik, a traditional headdress that was even adopted by women of the Tsar’s court and adorned with magnificent jewels, as well as brightly colored traditional embroidery. The 63 pieces of LA PARIS RUSSE DE CHANEL are a combination of sumptuous necklaces, sautoirs, bracelets, rings, earrings, and headpieces. Each one is more fantastic than the last, particularly the foulard-style necklace that is nothing short of incredible in its complexity and elegance. Diamonds and pearls, a signature of CHANEL High Jewelry, are set along rich precious gems like yellow sapphires, emeralds, and garnets.
Since I first started writing about CHANEL on Westmount Fashionista, I’ve fallen more and more in love with the House. I’ve been granted access and opportunities that I am continuously grateful for. Being welcomed at (and touring) the BOUTIQUE CHANEL JOAILLERIE made me truly appreciate the incredible world of CHANEL High Jewelry. With each collection, I continue to be even more captivated by the incredible work the house produces. However, LE PARIS RUSSE DE CHANEL is hands-down, my favorite collection to date. Simply put, it is special. So very, very special. The wonders that the artisans of the CHANEL JOAILLERIE atelier have created for LE PARIS RUSSE DE CHANEL are absolutely breathtaking.
You can read more about the history of CHANEL High Jewelry { here } and the incredible legacy of Gabrielle Chanel’s singular fine Jewelry collection { here }.