For the CHANEL Spring-Summer 2022 RTW collection that was unveiled during the Spring-Summer 2022 Paris shows this week, Virginie Viard looked to the very essence of the fashion industry. She notes, “…fashion is about clothes, models and photographers” and that love and genuine appreciation was at the very essence of the collection. A striking Inez & Vinoodh photo of model Vivienne Rohner acted as an anchor for the show and set the tone for the collection. CHANEL runway presentations are typically fantastical affairs. The Maison has previously created a lapping shore line, a snowy Alpine village, and and actual working rocket under the dome of the Grand Palais. However, I found the setting for this season to be one of the most special yet. A simple white runway with a crowd of fashion photographers lining it was totally reminiscent of the CHANEL runway shows of the 1990s that are so emblematic of the Lagerfeld years.
The CHANEL Spring-Summer 2022 RTW collection itself was also a loving nod to so many of the Maison’s greatest codes and moments. The iconic tweed CHANEL suiting duo of a blazer and skirt, one of the most enduring hallmarks of the house, is imaged with playfully high slits on each side of the skirt. Black and white bathing suits layered with belts and bijoux looked as if they were borrowed from those iconic 90s runway moments that featured the great super models of the era like Naomi Campbell, Claudia Schiffer, and Linda Evangelista. Beautiful knitwear is shown as Spring-Summer appropriate short and skirt sets in soft pinks and crisp whites. Viard also noted that “I always like to have something romantic. A touch of mystery” and she achieved this perfectly with the closing looks of the collection. Diaphanous chiffon pieces featuring oversized multicoloured butterfly fly wings seemed to float and whirl about the models and beg to be worn on a warm summer day.
Virginie Viard clearly has a reverential respect for the history of CHANEL and the emblems and motifs that are so intrinsically linked to the Maison. The CHANEL Spring-Summer 2022 RTW collection beautifully references so many of them without feeling overdone or overwhelming. It’s almost as if there are clearly defined mini collections within the larger collection. Yet it all flows together so perfectly. From the grande dame to the gamine, they are each present in this beautiful collection.
As for accessories, I can only imagine that many a CHANEL SAs phone and inbox are currently overwhelmed with requests. Make sure to stay tuned because I’ll be dedicating an entire post to a detailed look at these amazing and totally lust -worthy pieces!
To see the film of the full CHANEL Spring-Summer 2022 RTW collection, click {here}
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Photos c/o CHANEL