Inspired by French impressionism and vintage photos of Gabrielle Chanel, the CHANEL Fall/Winter 21/22 Haute Couture collection presented this week is one of my favourite collections created under the direction of Virginie Viard since she assumed the role of Creative Director of CHANEL. Viard notes finding her inspiration “when I rediscovered these portraits of Gabrielle Chanel dressed up in black or white 1880s- style dresses” and how they brought to mind the works of Berthe Morisot, Marie Laurencin and Édouard Manet. The dreamy and colourful palette that is found in the canvasses of the impressionists is also represented in the collection. Classic CHANEL tones of black, white, and grey play beautifully against pale pinks, yellow, mauve, reds, and blues making for a winter collection that is resplendent with joy and colour. There is something also so, simply put, cool about the collection. Viard beautifully balances the sumptuous elegance the House of CHANEL is so know for with a consistent injection of modernity that adds a freshness to her collections. In fact, I would venture that she beautifully and rather masterfully embodies Gabrielle Chanel’s original vision for the house. A vision that played with the duality of the masculine and feminine and the luxurious and the uncomplicated. This collection in particular highlights these dualities so beautifully.
The CHANEL Fall/Winter 21/22 Haute Couture also had a beautiful floral theme running throughout that would not be out of place on a Morisot canvas. “There are dresses embroidered with water lilies, a jacket in a black tweed crafted from feathers with red and pink flowers,” says Virginie Viard. “I was also thinking about English gardens. I like to mix a touch of England with a very French style. It’s like blending the masculine and the feminine, which is what I’ve done with this collection too. That twist is very much a part of who I am.” The gowns of the collection were particular standouts, especially the final eight looks that were sent down the runway the final being the traditional wedding gown that was donned by actress and CHANEL ambassador Margaret Qualley.
The biannual CHANEL Haute Couture collections are always a celebration of the staggering skill of the House’s artisans and their partner ateliers. Having invested deeply in the preservation of these heritage skills through their Le 19M endeavour, the couture collections, along with the yearly Métiers d’art collection, are always beautifully representative of these highly specialized finishings. Embroidery by Maison Lesage and Atelier Montex, feathers, flowers, and plissé from Lemarié, and shoes from Massaro adorn and accompany these sartorial works of art. Needless to say, this season did not disappoint with incredible finishings and detail work from these ateliers being showcased on the spectacular pieces created by the CHANEL artisans.
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