Gabrielle Chanel was and still is known for how she embraced and celebrated her sense of freedom through her designs and life choices. It is this sense of freedom that influenced CHANEL creative director Virginie Viard for the Cruise 2024/25 collection. The show was held in the historic French port city of Marseille, with the location also providing inspiration for the collection. Viard notes, “The sun, architecture, music and dance: Marseille also has a very strong sense of freedom. I was inspired by the codes of lifestyle, of everyday life and by all the things that invite movement. The sea and the wind made me want to play with wetsuits.”
The collection has a distinctly maritime aesthetic. This is seen in quite literal interpretations of this theme with motifs of little fish, fishing nets, shells, and shellfish being found on garments like suit jackets, waistcoats, blouses, T-shirts, tanks, and dresses. More subtle nods to the sea are seen in the undulating lines and shapes that evoke the silvery surface of the sun-dappled sea on elegant tweeds and sequined jackets. Peacoats, another seafaring sartorial staple, were shown in black and white and shown. Layering was another major code of the collection where shirt collars, French cuffs and jackets are worn over or under other jackets and outfits. The classic CHANEL little black dress was imagined with a bustier in jersey with straps and the top of a swimsuit embroidered with little flowers.
Swimwear is a standout of the collection. With bloomers, briefs and side-opening dresses, the collection is in a summery mood, as demonstrated by the waffle fabric skirts, petticoats and bodices in ivory ladder lace and patchworks of broderie anglaise. Footwear includes terry towelling flip-flops with platform soles that will undoubtably be wildly popular come their release.
Photography via CHANEL
