This past week, CHANEL unveiled its yearly Métiers d’art Collection in Manchester England. These annual collections are particularly special to the CHANEL universe. They were first introduced by Karl Lagerfeld during his storied tenure at the helm of CHANEL. The Métiers d’art Collections not only pay homage to the location that they’re held in, but also to the incredible work of the specialized artisans CHANEL partners with to create their garments. I personally think of CHANEL Métiers d’art Collections as demi-couture, thanks to the inclusion of so many phenomenal Métiers touches like intricate beading, embroidery, pleating, and materials like knitwear, hats, feathers, and bejewelled finishings. For this year’s collection, Virginie Viard looked to Manchester and tweed, a fabric so beloved by CHANEL that it is emblematic of the House. Viard noted, “Tweed is central to this collection. I thought a lot about Gabrielle Chanel but I didn’t want to recreate Coco’s look, when she was wearing the Duke of Westminster’s jackets. I took my cue from the Coco who brought colour to her tweeds. I added a vibrant, pop spirit to them.” As for the location, Manchester’s famed Thomas Street hosted the show and help add inspiration to the 60s meets Great Britain inspired styling of the collection. “For me, Manchester is the city of music, confides Virginie Viard. It incites creation.”
That celebration of creation and art was evident in the beautifully riotous color palette that comprised that collection. Salmon pink, pumpkin, apple green mustard, sky blue, red and rust played perfectly against classic CHANEL black and cream tones. Viard did what she has been doing so expertly for CHANEL – she honoured the codes and history of the House while infusing a youthful modernity into the pieces. The expert tailoring that marked Gabrielle Chanel’s original designs is the centrepiece of the collection. Jackets are done with contrasting inner fabrics and chains at the hem so they sit just so and pieces are made to be worn and allow for freedom of movement just as Mademoiselle Chanel first designed over a century ago. The love affair between CHANEL and Great Britain is also seen in the form of teapots, vinyl records and darling little flowers adorning pieces that evoke Manchester’s music scene and the English countryside.
As for accessories, these were a total triumph as well. Darling little Mary-Jane shoes were done both heeled and flat, and featured a variety of embellishments like pearls and bows. For bijoux, there were the classic ropes of pearls and matched cuff bracelets. Finally, the bags. Oh the bags! Métiers d’arts Collections always include the most spectacular and collectable bags. There are classic shapes but also seasonal styles done in an array of materials. I particularly loved the inclusion of so many gorgeous tweed and herringbone options.
Based on the previous reception of CHANEL’s prior Métiers d’art Collections, I would start sending your wish list items to your SA if I were you!
